Rhodes is blessed with one of the best climates for grape growing in Greece, with long sunshine hours, summer breezes and enough rainfall to sustain the vines. It was the prime supplier of sparkling wine to all major cities in Greece during the last four decades and, even today, most people believe Rhodes only produces that style of wine. But this could not be further from the truth – Mandilaria and Athiri can produce some vibrant dry reds and whites, and some demi-sec wines are also excellent. The rare sweet Muscats of Rhodes are noteworthy and the island roses can be among the best in Greece.
In many islands across the Aegean Sea, most with no recent wine-related past, private companies are investing money and exploring new possibilities. Paros has been an AOC since 1980, but quality wine production has been minimal since the mid-1990s. It is the only region of Greece permitted to vinify red grapes together with white grape must.
Monemvassia is a white grape specialty of the island and its potential is greater than that of the red grape, Mandilaria. Other islands – like Chios, Tinos, Kithira and Naxos – will also develop their presence in the wine market over the next few years. Even in Mykonos – the benchmark high-life holiday resort in Greece – local wines are gaining a reputation beyond the island’s market, ready to conquer the rest of Greece and possibly be exported to Germany and Belgium.
The main problem in Mykonos is even more evident in Santorini, the other tourist hot spot of the Aegean; growing vines is the least profitable activity one can dedicate the land to, and vines struggle to survive in the volcanic soils of Santorini. There is very low fertility, very low availability of water and the weather is extremely hot. The wind can also be so strong that the vines are stressed to the limit and the roots will only stay in the ground if the vines are trained into a low basket. In one of the most surreal terroirs of Europe, vines struggle to produce even two tones of grapes per hectare.
It is very fortunate that, in these surroundings, the Assyrtiko white grape can make wines with a magnificent combination of body, steeliness and high acidity. Athiri and Aidani round off the blend. Although the dry whites of Santorini are sublime, the sweet Vinsanto, made from sun-dried grapes, is a far more exotic delicacy. Mature examples, halfway between oloroso and tawny port in style, are truly outstanding. Some rare examples of sweet, sun-dried Mavrathiro – Madeira-like style – and oak-aged, full-bodied Mavrotragano, make one wonder if there is a genetic connection with Mataro/Mourverdre, and show beyond doubt that Santorini is blessed.
Santorini is one of the most beautiful places on earth, beyond her vinous treasures. Millions of tourists every summer gather to visit the volcanic calderas, walk in the picturesque villages and watch the unforgettable sunset of Oia. This pushes land prices up to unrealistic levels and the amount of money one will make from an hectare of vines cannot compare to the revenue generated from a hotel or a coffee shop on the same land.
Most young people today are more interested in mojitos and margaritas, while the older and more experienced wine producing generation – who can spot the variety of a vine from 10 paces and turn pruning into a work of art – are either passing away or retiring.
This depressing reality is excellently illustrated by the extremities of Santorini but also stands true for many other Greek regions. Every day that passes by could see the irreversible loss of tremendous potential – and that is a loss for the whole world.
But the future does hold hope. As Greek wines get ever better, and is tasted by the many visitors to the region, hope remains that the country’s noble wine heritage will translate into a new and exciting chapter.
Konstantinos Lazarakis MW